Graycliff

Graycliff and Heritage Village
December 2017

I was thrilled to learn that my friends were arriving via cruise with a port of call in Nassau. Although they only had a few hours to spend here, I knew exactly where to take them for an enjoyable and memorable time. I made sure I showed them the historic Graycliff -- the first 5-star luxury hotel and restaurant in the Caribbean.

You can't claim you've been to The Bahamas unless you've visited the acclaimed Graycliff and the Heritage Village. This iconic property, rich in history (spanning 300 years), is so much a part of Nassau and The Bahamas.

Graycliff's rich history spans 300 years beginning from the Pirate's Era.

Graycliff is located on the corner of Blue Hill Road and West Hill Street

Nassau cruise visitors like my friends could easily reach Graycliff on foot. It's tucked away at the corner of Blue Hill Road and West Hill Street but a leisurely walk from downtown (only a block away from the British Colonial Hilton).

My guests were instantly enamored as we walked up the steps to enter the old colonial style mansion. They agreed that it was like being transported in time. The parlor, main restaurant, and private dining areas were all brimming with Old World charm.

This style of decor is best described by Houzz: "...the look always calls to mind a sense of antiquity and the stately air of bygone centuries." It's formal but warm and inviting; comfortably worn but elegant; grand yet homey.

The parlor inside Graycliff

One of the stately private dining areas inside Graycliff 

Another private dining room already set up for a private event.

The property is massive and there's so much to see here. I took them for a walk into the meandering gardens and surprised them with the stunning pool. I was also blown away the first time I saw it. I've never seen such a picturesque pool tile design.

The stunning pool with its unique tile design.

From there, we wandered inside the humidor and cigar factory where we witnessed a torcedor (cigar-rolling expert) in action. In 2013, Graycliff released a premium cigar blend and named it John Howard Graysmith, in honor of the famous pirate who originally built the Graycliff mansion in 1740.

This way to the humidor and cigar factory

I led them to the spacious piazza, then up towards the terrace to show them the beer garden, churrascaria, and the pizzeria. I heard that on Fridays, they serve Happy Hour at the beer garden from 5:00 - 7:30 p.m. with pizza and beer for a very good deal. I have yet to check that out.

Inside the churrascaria, where they serve all-you-can-eat Brazilian barbecue fare

Fresh pizza at the Giotto Pizzeria

Past the pizzeria is a short path that takes you to the chocolate boutique with a wide selection of gourmet chocolates. I told my friends that my favorite Graycliff chocolate flavor is the key lime pie. It tastes just like it. Connected to the boutique is the chocolate factory where they offer chocolate-making classes. It's a fun and educational activity for both adults and children.

Taking just a few steps outside the Chocolatier, we explored the neighboring Heritage Village that houses the Bahama Barrels winery (first and only in The Bahamas), the Drawbridge gelato place, The Artists Studio, The Heritage Museum, and the charming boutique shop. Everything was painted in cheerful Bahamas colors and was such a delight to see.

Just outside the Chocolatier, you can explore Heritage Village

Bahama Barrels is the first and only winery in The Bahamas. Originally built in 1937, it was once a chapel of the Sisters of Charity Academy.

The Artists' Studios showcase crafts designed and produced by local artists.

The adorable Drawbridge is a gelato shop. See more in the video at the end of this story.

The Heritage Museum of The Bahamas

The darling boutique with souvenirs and novelties. I love its sand-covered floor.

Oh, and there's more! Underneath the restaurant is a wine cellar and cognateque. History tells us it used to be a dungeon, where pirate's prisoners were held. It also holds the 3rd largest wine collection in the world. You can read more about that story in my upcoming post.

After exploring the iconic Graycliff, I was rewarded with this feedback, "I've never enjoyed Nassau as much as I did during this visit!"

Here's a video of our day's adventure at Graycliff.

As I mentioned, the Graycliff mansion was built in 1740 by the feared and famous pirate John Howard Graysmith who had earned a reputation for successfully plundering ships in the pirates era. Although captured by the British, he later received royal pardon after he finally surrendered his buccaneering days. Over three centuries, the mansion transformed from that Pirate's Era, ending with Enrico Garzaroli and his wife finally purchasing the property in 1973. You can find the historic timeline here on how it evolved into what it is today.

Thanks to Tru Bahamian Food Tours, I discovered the magical world of Graycliff.

Katsuya

Katsuya Baha Mar
Nassau, The Bahamas
November 3, 2017


"Would you go back?"

Christopher, who was with us for dinner that evening, brought up this simple but most important question. The answer is very telling of one's overall rating of a restaurant.

He's absolutely right. You might say that the food was delicious, the service was good, and the venue was great. But was the restaurant compelling enough to make you want to go back?

Tonight, we put Katsuya to the test.

Katsuya's main dining room

Giant-sized kanji, the Japanese symbol for katsu meaning "win," decorated the fabric banners that hung above Katsuya's central sushi counter. All around, the upscale restaurant pulsated with an electric vibe. The beaming staff hollered "Irasshaimase!" in unison as they welcomed the constant stream of patrons.

As millennials would say, "The place was lit." After all, it's Katsuya. This particular location, inside the grand Baha Mar in Nassau, Bahamas, opened last August 15, 2017 to become the tenth of the legendary Japanese restaurant chain.

The signature red lips on a backlit panel by the sushi bar.

The sleek and urban interior articulated Philippe Starck's signature design. Just like the one in Las Vegas, it had the distinctive backlit panels featuring a geisha's glossy red lips and pair of eyelashes. A glass-encased kimono brilliantly separated the private dining room with walls and ceilings splashed with an artistic rendition of a dragon.

Gorgeous lashes brightened up the liquid kitchen

Reputed to deliver a "feast for the senses," Katsuya is known to powerfully match Starck's arresting design with the exceptional creations of Master Sushi Chef Katsuya Uechi. Our party of five was here to find out and we're ready to be swept off our feet.

A glass-encased kimono separated the private dining room

Our head waiter, Chase, enthusiastically attended to us and gave us a brief introduction of the iconic culinary concept. "There are four kitchens here," he began."One is the liquid kitchen," he pointed with his thumb to the bar behind him. "There's the sushi kitchen, the hot kitchen, and the robata (Japanese charcoal grill)." He highlighted that sharing is highly encouraged.

Chase, our head waiter

Once the inquiries about allergies were out of the way, the culinary parade began. Plate after plate, we swooned over the dishes delivered to our table. Each presentation was fabulous. With every bite, there was a party in my mouth.

It's challenging to pare down our favorites but here's our list of absolute must-haves:

Maitake Mushrooms

Maitake Mushrooms. Upon tasting this, we all exclaimed, "OMG!" The delicious flavor oozed as I sank my teeth into the tender Maitake mushrooms that have been slowly roasted on the robata or Japanese charcoal grill. (Fun fact:  Maitake mushrooms are also known to have a powerful medicinal value.)

Japanese Octopus Carpaccio

Japanese Octopus Carpaccio. Even my husband Alan, who typically doesn't eat octopus, surprised me when he raved about this Katsuya specialty starter. We were all wild about the thinly sliced octopus drenched in lemon herb relish and yuzu kosho (a Japanese seasoning similar to chili paste).

Crispy Brussel Sprouts. Those who aren't fans of Brussel sprouts will bow down to this appetizer. The separated leaves of the brussel sprouts were tossed in balsamic soy with toasted almonds, then roasted to a crispy consistency. Absolutely loved it! [Not pictured. My photo doesn't do it justice.]

Shrimp Tobanyaki - sizzling shrimp and mushrooms

Shrimp Tobanyaki. It's easy to recognize that tobanyaki means to roast on a ceramic plate. This simple but mouth-watering dish sizzled, leaving a tempting aroma. The combo of succulent shrimp and mushrooms smothered in a savory sauce was to die for.

From the Robata:  Kakuni Pork Belly and Grilled Corn

Kakuni Pork Belly. Who doesn't love pork belly? Oh, but this one will change your life. The robata pork belly was so tender, it was almost impossible to pick up with chopsticks. Kakuni involves thick cubes of pork belly braised for a long period to keep it moist and tender. In robatayaki fashion, the braised pork belly are skewered and slowly cooked over a hot charcoal grill (robata). I agree with friends Omar and Danielle about giving this five stars.

I also want to point out these two menu items that were created exclusively for the Nassau location:

Conch-oyaki, a playful adaptation of conch fritters

Conch-oyaki. This is a playful interpretation of conch fritters, a popular Bahamas food specialty. Local conch is prepared tempura style, battered and deep-fried, topped with fish flakes.

Conch Salad served in a coconut shell

Conch Salad. This version innovates the traditional Potter's Cay conch salad, served in a coconut shell and topped with coconut foam.

In between oohs and ahhs over the different courses, we touched on various conversational topics ranging from politics to sports, business, and family. We simply had a great time. After we blitzed on the sumptuous dessert selections, we gushed over our astounding dinner experience. Everything. Was. Delicious.

"The flavors!" cried an emphatic Cristopher. "And the energy here is incredible." SLS Baha Mar isn't even due to open until November 14, yet the restaurant was buzzing.

Now back to the original question: "Would you go back?" All my senses answered with a standing ovation, "Without a doubt."

p.s. Remember to try their specialty cocktails too. My favorite is the Katsuya Fresh, a creative concoction of vodka, Rock sake, cucumbers and lime.



For more information about Katsuya Baha Mar and its menu, click here. They recently opened for lunch from 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. Tuesdays to Saturdays. Open daily for dinner from 5:30 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.

Cafe Matisse

Getting to know the background of this restaurant is like taking a tour of Europe. The name was inspired by a chef from Switzerland; the decor is a tribute to the artist from France; and the specialty is undeniably the traditional food of Italy.

Cafe Matisse on Bank Lane in Nassau, The Bahamas

Table for two at Cafe Matisse's courtyard

Cafe Matisse owner Greg Curry and his wife Gabriella ("She's the Italian," he pointed out) were vacationing in San Moritz when they met a talented chef named Matisse. He was so memorable that they named their cafe after him.

Inside the restaurant, Henri Matisse's art pervades. The brand tagline, "From canvas to table," playfully alludes to the French artist. Although it sounds very French, Cafe Matisse specializes in authentic Italian cuisine.

"We also make our own pasta, pizza, and bread," explained chef David Fiora, speaking with a distinctive Italian accent. Originally from Milan, Chef David has been working his magic in Cafe Matisse's kitchen for 15 years.

Cafe Matisse Chef David Fiora hails from Milan, Italy

Since opening in 1996, Cafe Matisse has built and upheld a reputation for being one of the best fine dining restaurants in Nassau, The Bahamas. (Number one on TripAdvisor.) It sits in the heart of downtown Nassau, along a narrow alley called Bank Lane. The restaurant can be found behind the historic Parliament Square, a landmark that is hard to miss with its bright pink facade fronted with the statue of Queen Victoria. History reveals that the centuries old building, which is now Cafe Matisse, was once a horse and buggy firehouse.

Main dining room

The courtyard for al fresco dining

Private dining room upstairs

From the minute I stepped inside the restaurant, I instantly felt like a guest in someone's charming home. It was my friend Jane Lightbourne who suggested Cafe Matisse for a dinner get-together. After hearing rave reviews, I looked forward to dining there. I didn't expect I'd be smitten.

The inviting reception area makes you feel at home

A welcoming sofa at the reception lounge

I remember that everything we ordered that night was great. Thanks to Jane, who offered me a bite of her appetizer, I was forever hooked to the heavenly octopus salad. I only had a morsel but it left a powerful impression with me. It was succulent and tasted as tender as a fine lobster dish. I've never had octopus that excellent before.

Insalatta di Polipo, Octopus Salad with Potatoes and Olives

Also notable was the service we received. I could tell how well established the restaurant was just by observing the friendly and efficient staff. They moved purposefully and seamlessly like clockwork.

We were there early but it didn't take long for the place to fill up. If you have any idea about parking in downtown Nassau, you'll appreciate the popularity of this dining hotspot even more.

I was focused on spending time with our friends that I didn't take pictures that evening. So there I was back in Cafe Matisse the other day, on a mission to complete this story. I arrived before they opened for lunch service. Even though the staff was busy setting up, they remained helpful and courteous.

More of the garden courtyard

Shortly after, a modest Greg Curry casually walked in, briefly excusing himself to extinguish his cigar. The Bahamas-born restaurateur was kind enough to spare a few minutes answering my questions about his restaurant.

During this return visit, I was treated to Insalatta di Polipo, the Octopus Salad. Since the menu is updated every six months, the sublime appetizer came with a new twist this time around. The hero ingredient featured Spanish octopus which is packed with flavor. I enjoyed the contrasting textures of the octopus and the soft potatoes. The olives with the simple dressing gave the dish a delightful zest. And the ginger lemonade recommended by Tico was just the right beverage complement. It was refreshing, as promised by the gentlemanly food attendant.

The ginger lemonade makes the perfect beverage complement to the octopus salad.

I didn't want to leave without taking a photo of Greg. I found him sitting at the bar. "Make sure to get 'Lou Rawls' in the picture too," he joked, referencing a TripAdvisor review that stated their bartender sounded like Lou Rawls. I think his voice sounded more like Barry White. Ah, but the guy's charm is all his own.

Cafe Matisse owner Greg Curry

The Lou Rawls sound-alike bartender at Cafe Matisse

Cafe Matisse is closed on Sundays and Mondays but open for lunch from noon to 3:00 p.m. and dinner from 6:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m. the rest of the week. To view their menu, click here. Reservations are highly recommended.