Easter at Nipper's - in Abaco, The Bahamas

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Read about Easter at Nipper's here.

Vibrantly painted picnic tables at Nipper's Beach Bar & Grill
Great Guana Cay, Abaco in The Bahamas

Great Guana Cay in Abaco - in The Bahamas

This blog has moved to a new site:  curiousdonna.com/blog

Read about Great Guana Cay in Abaco here
https://www.curiousdonna.com/blog/great-guana-cay-in-abaco

Located in Great Guana Cay, Abaco, The Bahamas

Sacred Space at Atlantis - In The Bahamas

This blog has moved to a new site:  curiousdonna.com/blog

Read the story about Sacred Space at Atlantis here:
https://www.curiousdonna.com/blog/sacred-space-at-the-cove-atlantis

Curious Donna at the Sacred Space Atlantis

Sacred Space Atlantis, Bahamas

Graycliff

Graycliff and Heritage Village
December 2017

I was thrilled to learn that my friends were arriving via cruise with a port of call in Nassau. Although they only had a few hours to spend here, I knew exactly where to take them for an enjoyable and memorable time. I made sure I showed them the historic Graycliff -- the first 5-star luxury hotel and restaurant in the Caribbean.

You can't claim you've been to The Bahamas unless you've visited the acclaimed Graycliff and the Heritage Village. This iconic property, rich in history (spanning 300 years), is so much a part of Nassau and The Bahamas.

Graycliff's rich history spans 300 years beginning from the Pirate's Era.

Graycliff is located on the corner of Blue Hill Road and West Hill Street

Nassau cruise visitors like my friends could easily reach Graycliff on foot. It's tucked away at the corner of Blue Hill Road and West Hill Street but a leisurely walk from downtown (only a block away from the British Colonial Hilton).

My guests were instantly enamored as we walked up the steps to enter the old colonial style mansion. They agreed that it was like being transported in time. The parlor, main restaurant, and private dining areas were all brimming with Old World charm.

This style of decor is best described by Houzz: "...the look always calls to mind a sense of antiquity and the stately air of bygone centuries." It's formal but warm and inviting; comfortably worn but elegant; grand yet homey.

The parlor inside Graycliff

One of the stately private dining areas inside Graycliff 

Another private dining room already set up for a private event.

The property is massive and there's so much to see here. I took them for a walk into the meandering gardens and surprised them with the stunning pool. I was also blown away the first time I saw it. I've never seen such a picturesque pool tile design.

The stunning pool with its unique tile design.

From there, we wandered inside the humidor and cigar factory where we witnessed a torcedor (cigar-rolling expert) in action. In 2013, Graycliff released a premium cigar blend and named it John Howard Graysmith, in honor of the famous pirate who originally built the Graycliff mansion in 1740.

This way to the humidor and cigar factory

I led them to the spacious piazza, then up towards the terrace to show them the beer garden, churrascaria, and the pizzeria. I heard that on Fridays, they serve Happy Hour at the beer garden from 5:00 - 7:30 p.m. with pizza and beer for a very good deal. I have yet to check that out.

Inside the churrascaria, where they serve all-you-can-eat Brazilian barbecue fare

Fresh pizza at the Giotto Pizzeria

Past the pizzeria is a short path that takes you to the chocolate boutique with a wide selection of gourmet chocolates. I told my friends that my favorite Graycliff chocolate flavor is the key lime pie. It tastes just like it. Connected to the boutique is the chocolate factory where they offer chocolate-making classes. It's a fun and educational activity for both adults and children.

Taking just a few steps outside the Chocolatier, we explored the neighboring Heritage Village that houses the Bahama Barrels winery (first and only in The Bahamas), the Drawbridge gelato place, The Artists Studio, The Heritage Museum, and the charming boutique shop. Everything was painted in cheerful Bahamas colors and was such a delight to see.

Just outside the Chocolatier, you can explore Heritage Village

Bahama Barrels is the first and only winery in The Bahamas. Originally built in 1937, it was once a chapel of the Sisters of Charity Academy.

The Artists' Studios showcase crafts designed and produced by local artists.

The adorable Drawbridge is a gelato shop. See more in the video at the end of this story.

The Heritage Museum of The Bahamas

The darling boutique with souvenirs and novelties. I love its sand-covered floor.

Oh, and there's more! Underneath the restaurant is a wine cellar and cognateque. History tells us it used to be a dungeon, where pirate's prisoners were held. It also holds the 3rd largest wine collection in the world. You can read more about that story in my upcoming post.

After exploring the iconic Graycliff, I was rewarded with this feedback, "I've never enjoyed Nassau as much as I did during this visit!"

Here's a video of our day's adventure at Graycliff.

As I mentioned, the Graycliff mansion was built in 1740 by the feared and famous pirate John Howard Graysmith who had earned a reputation for successfully plundering ships in the pirates era. Although captured by the British, he later received royal pardon after he finally surrendered his buccaneering days. Over three centuries, the mansion transformed from that Pirate's Era, ending with Enrico Garzaroli and his wife finally purchasing the property in 1973. You can find the historic timeline here on how it evolved into what it is today.

Thanks to Tru Bahamian Food Tours, I discovered the magical world of Graycliff.

They Have Them Here!

It's a common sight in the summer here in Nassau. Driving through downtown, Alan and I would find street vendors peddling green, grape-looking fruits.

This Bahamian fruit looks like grapes on the outside, like lychee on the inside.

"They call it keneps," said my Filipina friend Amy who's been living on the island for a decade now. She wasn't sure about the spelling so I also asked my Bahamian friend about it.

"That's guinep," Danielle said. Google tells me both spellings are correct. The Bahamian fruit, rich in nutritional value, is also commonly known as the Spanish lime. It is native to the Caribbean islands as well as in South and Central America. Depending on the locale or region, it is known by different names ranging from "quenepas," "mamoncillo," to "huaya" or "ackee."

I was thrilled when Alan came home one day toting a clear plastic bag with a small bunch of the local fruit. I thought he might have encountered a street vendor on the drive home, but he told me it came from his co-worker. The same gracious co-worker even demonstrated how to properly consume it.

"She was just dying to have one of these," he pinched a single guinep. "She begged to show me how to eat it," he laughed and replicated the tutorial for my sake.

He started by gently biting the shell to crack it open. Inside, the almost-orange pulp looks like a thin film covering a large seed. It resembles the inside of a lychee or the Philippine rambutan.

Just like he would with a sweet and sour candy, he sucked on the fleshy part of the pulp, leaving the seed clean. It's tart and tangy, reminiscent of grapes. It tastes even better when refrigerated.

The kenep or guinep, its inside, and its seed

Bit by bit, I'm discovering that Bahamas grows several of my favorite Philippine fruits, including those that I haven't had in years! One of them is the sugar apple, which Filipinos call "atis."

The sugar apple or what I call "atis"

I spied them on our way home from the mall one weekend. A group of locals were stacking the sugar apples on their pop-up stand, under a big shade tree. My eyes grew wide. "They have atis here!" I couldn't believe it and I was elated. I've missed its sugary taste. Alan quickly pulled over so I could get my fill.

Pop-up stands and roadside vendors selling sugar apples

Just the other day, Alan brought home another delicious surprise:  the guava duff. It reminded me of a jelly roll. The dough is cake-like and the jelly is made with guava (also known to Pinoys as "bayabas.") The best way to enjoy guava duff is to drizzle it with a special rum or brandy butter sauce. Heated, of course. It's heavenly. I looked over the recipe. Preparing this traditional Bahamian delicacy involves a tedious process. But the results are rewarding.

Guava duff minus the brandy butter sauce

Another fruit also available here is the soursop, which is called "guyabano" in the Philippines. I relished the taste from a homemade popsicle. I picked the soursop flavored treat while promenading at the Atlantis' Marina Village.

Just this summer, Atlantis Paradise Island opened Sun & Ice, a new ice cream parlor that puts a spotlight on the indigenous fruits of The Bahamas. The brand new venue at The Coral Towers' lobby looks as refreshing as the local fruit-infused flavors of ice cream, gelato, and sorbet offerings.

Local ice cream flavors at Sun & Ice inside Atlantis

The new Sun & Ice gelato shop at Atlantis Paradise Island 

Diner style seating at Atlantis' ice cream shop, Sun & Ice

Gathering spots around the new ice cream shop, Sun & Ice

I walked up to study the labels on the ice cream display. My interest was piqued by one of the flavors.

"What is sapodilla?" I asked the lady behind the counter.

"It's Bahamian," she answered.

"Right. But what is it? Is it a fruit?" I wanted to learn more.

"Yes, it's a fruit."

Well, that didn't really satisfy my curiosity so I consulted good ol' Google again. To my surprise, I saw photos of a familiar brown-colored fruit with shiny black seeds. Aha! Sapodilla to The Bahamas is "chico" to Pilipinas.

Pink Octopus

Pink Octopus in Nassau, Bahamas

Suggesting a hint of whimsy, Pink Octopus was chosen to be the name of chef/owner Gal Kotzer's debut restaurant in Nassau, The Bahamas. "It's fun and playful," he said.

The new kid in town just opened in mid-February this year and it came highly recommended by new-found friends. It didn't take long for hubby and me to check it out.

Pink Octopus lives up to its hashtag #wedohappy. The restaurant's interior from floor to ceiling spelled F-U-N. It's a cozy space, delightful with lively colors and gleeful decor. The dining tables are awash in shades of Bahamian ocean waters.

The main dining area

Cute spot for a table for two

Nice corner for a larger party

The intimate lounge

The bar

Chef Gal, a native of Israel, was formerly the executive chef of The Cove and The Reef at Atlantis Paradise Island from 2009-2016. From there, he moved to become the executive chef of One&Only Ocean Club for a year prior to venturing on his own with Pink Octopus. 

Pink Octopus chef and owner, Gal Kotzer

We arrived during the last hour of lunch service on a Saturday, when the restaurant was quieting down. My hubby opted for the Spicy Shrimp Salad, normally served with avocado, pickled cucumbers, and feta cheese. Since he asked to forego the avocado, his slightly modified salad came with cherry tomatoes and cilantro. I asked for a taste and was rewarded with a refreshing and satisfying bite.

The Spicy Shrimp Salad

I, on the other hand, went for the restaurant's popular Fried Grouper Tacos with guacamole, cilantro, and red beets. I don't believe I've ever tried red beets on tacos before. I liked it! The mini tacos were meant for small plates but the modest serving size was just right for me. I was saving room for dessert.

Fried Grouper Tacos

For the finale, I chose the Dulce de Leche Flan. The slice of the caramel-colored flan lightly garnished with sesame seeds looked so delicate on the dessert plate. The flan was rich but the subdued bitter notes of the sesame seeds complemented it well. The sesame seeds also gave it a subtle nut flavor and crunch that I enjoy on my sweets. Lucky me, I didn't have to share because hubby doesn't like flan.

Dulce de Leche flan with sesame seeds

It's only natural to expect grilled baby octopus on the menu of a restaurant with a name such as theirs. I have yet to sample it. I also heard about their Sunday brunch, tempting dinner offerings, imaginative cocktails, and special event nights when they feature live entertainment. There are so many reasons to visit this place again. Hubby Alan and I started mentally listing names of friends to invite for future get-togethers here.  

"We're still changing things on the menu," admitted Chef Gal. Some changes are based on availability of ingredients. For instance, he was thrilled about introducing aji dulce, locally produced sweet bell peppers, as a substitute to the Asian shishito peppers. While related to the habanero, aji dulce peppers, are much milder and exude a smoky flavor. 

Other changes to the menu are driven by continuing improvement and experimentation. He did mention the one specialty that will remain permanent is the Cauliflower Steak. Curious? Me too. I'm definitely going back to try it. 

Pink Octopus on West Bay Street in Nassau.

Pink Octopus is located on West Bay Street in close proximity to Baha Mar Resort, Melia Nassau Beach, and Sandals Royal Bahamian Resort. It is easily reachable via Bus No. 10 (read my previous story) heading west from those hotel resorts. Most businesses in The Bahamas don't have websites. You can learn more about this restaurant by visiting their Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/PinkOctopusRestaurant.

Showstoppers

Mahogany House Part 2:  The Food

This post is continued from "Embracing His Game," a story about the chef of Mahogany House restaurant in The Bahamas.

Chef Dan and I settled on stools at the bar's corner for the interview. We discussed the essence of Mahogany House restaurant as well as his own culinary philosophy. He's an advocate of simplicity and fresh ingredients in cooking. Though he has access to irresistible sweets at home (his wife is a pastry chef), he doesn't touch them. He prefers desserts that bring forth natural sweetness like grilled peaches.

In between our leisurely chat, he'd get up to greet guests walking in for lunch, or he'd reply to staff members asking him quick questions. He was showing me his wedding photo when two of his top-selling menu items turned up in front of us.

I sampled the appetizer first and was immediately impressed after tasting only a small portion.

"OMG. This is amazing!" I exclaimed and pointed to the pork belly. He tried to hide a smile but the glint in his eyes couldn’t conceal his pride.

The Buffalo Pork Belly appetizer is a definite must-try.

This is a killer appetizer: the Buffalo Pork Belly (a creative variation of buffalo chicken wings) with bleu cheese dressing complemented with pickled celery and carrots.

The pork belly is masterfully smoked for six hours then braised for an additional four. When deep-fried to order, the result is an unbelievably succulent pork belly with a perfect bit of crisp on the outside. It was oozing with that unmistakable buffalo chicken wing flavor. Listed under "Bites" or small plates category of the menu, this serving is meant for sharing. Oh, but this is one appetizer I'm not willing to split with anyone.

Next, he introduced me to Mahogany House's best-selling entrée: the Blackened Snapper in chili butter sauce, served with prawn and polenta (a playful twist on shrimp ‘n’ grits), garnished with grilled scallion.

Mahogany House's showstopper: Blackened Snapper

This is outstanding. With just the right touch of spiciness, this dish is rich, elegant, and above all, comforting. Every delicious bite commands another. It is light and exceptionally satisfying. Interestingly, Chef Dan says it is the most popular item on the menu and the easiest to execute.

Ultimately, it's the food that makes or break a restaurant. After seeing the true stars of the show here, it's plain to see why their clientele clamor for an encore. I've been to some highly rated restaurants on the island but their offerings didn't excite me. Studying the interesting menu at Mahogany House, I found that there's something for everyone -- from mouthwatering starters, tasty yet healthy soups and salads, all-time favorite pizza and pasta, to savory main dishes. The duck confit manicotti on the menu caught my eye. I'm definitely coming back for that one.

Chef Dan getting ready to chill the braised pork belly

Chef Dan setting out the duck confit

"And what about wine?" you might ask. More on that in the next post called "A Pleasant Surprise."


Mahogany House is one of three dining options at The Island House, located in Mahogany Hill on Western Road (found on the west side of New Providence Island, The Bahamas.) Just outside the exclusive Lyford Cay Club, it is about a 10-minute drive from Lynden Pindling International Airport.

Here, There, and Everywhere

I spotted a land crab!
Click here for the short video clip.

I have seen ducks crossing the road before...but crabs???

I was confused. I wasn't even anywhere near the beach and yet there was this huge gray-colored crab that crossed the street, climbed onto the sidewalk, and then scurried towards the bushes in the garden. Where did this fella come from?

"I found this guy today. Do you know what it is?" I showed the photo to a local.

"That's a land crab," she quickly identified it. "We eat those," she added and asked if I've ever tried the country's popular dish called Crab & Rice.

It so happens that it's mid-August and still well into the crabbing season. The crab behavior I just witnessed was part of the land crab's life cycle. The geek in me had to learn more so I did some researching. Here's what I found out:

Land crabs actually live on land, burrowing in muddy areas where the soil and rock are saturated with water. When the heavy rains begin to pour -- usually in late May/earlyJune -- these crustaceans mate. About two weeks later (when their eggs have fertilized), the females must release their eggs into the saltwater. That's when they migrate from land to the ocean.

Andros, the biggest island in The Bahamas, is home to the largest population of free roaming land crabs. During migration and spawning season, its main road is blanketed with the clawed creatures. I've seen YouTube videos and photos and it's an incredible sight. Look at this photo by Tru Bahamian Food Tours, for example.

Crabs everywhere!
Photo credit:  Tru Bahamian Food Tours

The migration typically happens at night and during a full moon. Here's how a writer describes this occurence: "Each evening you will find folks all over the island with flashlights, burlap sacks, and 50 gallon drums lining the lone street in search of Mr. Crabby..."

Land crabbing in Andros has become an annual festival drawing not only locals but visitors from around the world. It's a big deal! The Crab Fest spotlights on local headliners, presents a smorgasbord of crab delicacies, and highlights culinary competitions. Of course, the main event is when locals catch crabs with their bare hands.

I have yet to visit Andros and experience all this because I missed Land Crabbing this year. For now, I'll leave you with this YouTube video that had me in stitches. Start at the 20-second mark.

"Ladies and gentlemen...This is breaking news. There are crabs, crabs everywhere...Everywhere!"

To learn more about land crabs, click here.

The Daiquiri Shack

The Daiquiri Shack in front of Melia Nassau in The Bahamas

If it weren't for my desire to explore the island by bus, I would have never found this gem. Directly outside Melia Nassau Beach Hotel, it is situated in front of the bus stop that shuttles passengers downtown.

Friendly tourists enjoying a frozen daiquiri

The Daiquiri Shack is as welcoming as the people inside. Party beats spill out of its windows and the interior oozes with character. Shelves are colorful with stacked fresh bananas, strawberries, oranges, pineapples, mangoes, and more. Plastered on the wall are autographed dollar bills and photos of visitors from all over the world. The rafters and ceiling are decorated with team T-shirts donated by visiting tourists.

Team shirts hang along the ceiling beams.

Of course, the hero is the bar at the center of it all. Juice blenders whizz as the cheerful bartender creates concoctions for his daiquiri fans.

When I walked in, I found some folks sitting on the stools surrounding the bar while others were leaning against the shack's railing as they waited for their drinks.

Bartenders here use large cooking spoons when preparing the best daiquiris in town.

When it was my turn, I ordered my favorite pineapple daiquiri.

"With alcohol?" the bartender asked to make sure.

 "Hell, yeah!"

He gladly added the magical rum and fired up the blender. He then poured the mixture into a plastic cup, finished it with a straw, and handed the overflowing drink to me. All it took was one sip and I was hooked.

My overflowing pineapple daiquiri

During my first time here, I found a snack menu posted on the door. Ahh, all of a sudden the picnic tables outside made sense. Aside from drinks, they also serve chicken wings and a burger combo meal with chips. They were quite good and they didn't bust my budget. Who said everything was expensive in The Bahamas?

I must say that the frozen daiquiri here is the best I've ever had. I crave it especially on a hot and humid day on the island. A small cup costs only $6 but I always opt for the large one for $10. Whether large or small, I'm sure either size would be enough to make anyone happy.