In Search of a Geisha

Yasaka-jinja Shrine
Gion, Kyoto 
October 9, 2014


I knew that coming back from our tour of Nara, we would still have a few hours to go to Gion, the famous Geisha district.

Pointing to a map, I asked our cab driver to take us to the Yasaka-jinja Shrine. Also known as the Gion Shrine, it is open 24/7 and is beautifully illuminated at night.

Yasaka-jinja Shrine or Gion Shrine is always open and beautifully lit at night.

I was told that while it is always open, there might not be enough light to enjoy the gardens of the shrine grounds at night. Alan and I were content with just gazing at the Gion Shrine and taking photographs of it.

It started to drizzle but that didn't deter us from strolling around the town. We came prepared with our folding umbrellas. We continued down the streets of Gion to look for a place to eat. In the process, I secretly hoped for a geisha or maiko sighting.

Traditional architecture around the streets of Gion

It started to drizzle as we were exploring around the Gion district.

From what I've read, the Gion District was developed to accommodate those who are visiting the Yasaka-jinja Shrine. Soon it became one of the most popular geisha districts in Japan.

Walking around Shijo Avenue

Though we didn't run into a geisha, we were delighted with other fun things to see like the traditional building architecture, upscale shops, specialty restaurants, and other interesting finds.

This is the closest thing to a geisha that we found in the Gion District.

This story continued from Illuminations and part of a series of travel adventure stories about Japan. 

Palace Restored. Heritage Preserved.

Kyoto Imperial Palace
October 9, 2014
Part Three of JTB Tour 1


Steeped in culture, the beloved Kyoto was Japan's capital for over 1,000 years. The Kyoto Imperial Palace was the residence of the Imperial family until the capital was moved to Tokyo in 1869. I feel so fortunate to have visited this historic site.

Behind me is the iconic Shishinden, the ceremonial hall of the Kyoto Imperial Palace.

Alan in front of the Oikeniwa Garden's tranquil pond with the Keyakibashi Bridge in the background.

Located in Gyoen park, the Kyoto Imperial Palace grounds are enclosed by a massive wall. The entire area, which spans approximately 27 acres, is filled with magnificent structures that display Japan's architectural styles and cultural heritage.

Sheishomon Gate, the main entrance gate

Once again, I was glad that we booked this tour through JTB USA. They took care of securing the required visitor's permits. Otherwise, we would have had to apply for entry and risk not getting permission on that same day.

Before entering the palace grounds, our JTB tour guide asked the group to form a line with rows of four people. For a moment, I felt as though I was in the military. I glanced at the roofed perimeter wall. It seemed to go on forever.

The Kyoto Imperial Palace is surrounded by a massive roofed earthen wall.

I couldn't help notice how spotless it was here. I wish the rest of the world would adopt the Japanese way of keeping surroundings perfectly clean.

The Okurumayose entrance used by official visitors granted permission to enter the Palace precincts.

The tour guide led us to the Shodaibunoma building. It was used as a waiting area by dignitaries paying official visits to the Palace. The dignitaries were ushered into three separate ante rooms depending on their rank. The rooms are arranged from highest rank (east) to lowest (west).

Each room is easily identified by the paintings on the sliding panels or fusuma:
     1.  Highest ranked room = Toranoma (Tiger Room)
     2.  Second highest ranked room = Tsurunoma (Crane Room)
     3.  Third highest ranked room = Sakuranoma (Cherry Room); also called the Shodaibunoma

The separate waiting rooms of the Shodaibunoma

The Cherry Room, the third highest ranked room.

The second highest ranked room is the Crane Room with cranes depicted on the sliding doors.

The most commanding structure is the Shishinden. As the Hall for State Ceremonies, it is where they held important ceremonies such as the Emperor's coronation. It is fronted by a pristine garden of white gravel.

Shishinden, the main building, with a courtyard laid with white gravel

View from another entrance into the Shishinden

This ceremonial hall is a one-story wooden building with a roof made of hiwada or layers of cypress bark. Our tour guide explained that it takes several cypress strips (did she say a thousand?) to create just one square meter of hiwada roof.

The large and ornate gates were also eye-catching. This one is adorned with a distinctive detail: the chrysanthemum seal, a crest used by the Japanese Imperial family. Can you find it in this photo?

Just one of the tremendous gates of the palace. This is the Kenreimon Gate.

Then there's the Shunkoden or the Sacred Mirror Hall. See how it has a different roof? Its roof is made of copper plates instead of the typical cypress bark layers. This structure was specifically built to house the sacred mirror during the enthronement of Emperor Taisho in 1915. (In Buddhism, the mirror is a significant symbol of man and the universe).

The Shunkoden or Sacred Mirror Hall

Another favorite scenic spot is the strolling garden called Oikeniwa Garden. It features the beautiful Keyakibashi Bridge across a serene pond. This garden is absolutely stunning!

The Keyakibashi Bridge that stretches across the pond of the strolling garden.

The breathtaking pond of Oikeniwa Garden features an artificial shoreline.

And finally, we marveled at the Otsunegoten, the largest building here. It has 15 rooms and became the main residence of the emperors from the 16th century until the capital was transferred to Tokyo.

The impressive Otsunegoten

A close look at the painted sliding doors inside one of the Otsunegoten rooms.

At the end of the tour, we were each handed a paper amulet -- a slip of paper inscribed with Japanese characters representing luck. "These are only good for one year," our tour guide teased. "To renew, you must come back for another visit."


Continued from Golden Reflections (Kinkaku-ji Temple).

Golden Reflections

Kinkaku-ji Temple
October 9, 2014
Part Two of JTB Tour 1


I've only seen it in pictures before. But to finally see it in person? I'm speechless! The gold-leaf covered floors of Kinkaku-ji Temple make it a striking sight. Even the surrounding pond, with its still waters, boasts a reflection that is just as stunning.

Even with so many tourists, we were able to take our turn in getting a good photo.

The Kinkaku-ji Temple (or Golden Pavilion) in all its splendor

View of the reflective pond from the opposite side

The second part of JTB USA's Kyoto morning tour brought us to this popular site. It's highly recommended for first-time visitors to Kyoto.

Seen at the First Gate: Tourists and students flocking to the world heritage site

Five golden rules to follow at the entrance

The original villa in this area was owned by a statesman named Saionji Kintsune. A shogun named Ashikaga Yoshimitzu bought it from him in 1937 and then built his own villa. After Yoshimitzu's death, and as a fulfillment of his will, the villa was converted into a Zen Buddhist temple.

The second and third floors are covered with gold foil on lacquer. At the top, is a golden phoenix.

Each floor of this temple represents a different architectural style:
1st floor - built in the Shinden style used for palace buildings (11th century imperial aristocracy)
2nd floor - built in the Bukke style used in samurai homes (warrior aristocracy)
3rd floor - built in the style of Chinese Zen Hall

Each floor depicts a different architectural style

The pavilion is not open to the public so we weren't able to go inside. I later learned that one might be able to spot the statues of the Shaka Buddha and Yoshimitzu on the first floor. I wish I had known this beforehand. Across the pond, the statues would have been viewable through the open windows of the first floor. I didn't see them but you can find photos here.

Statues inside the first floor can be viewed through its open windows

The garden, with the pond and the Golden Pavilion, is definitely a place of Zen. It deserves the title "Special Place of Scenic Beauty." Our JTB tour guide gave us enough time to roam around and stroll through the gardens. There's so much to discover.

If you ever visit this beautiful place, make sure to look for the Ryumon Taki or Carp Rock. A waterfall cascades onto this rock that looks like a carp trying to swim upstream. The story is that the carp rock symbolizes strength, courage, and the will to persevere in times of adversity.

This is the Galaxy Spring or Ginga-sen. The shogun Yoshimitzu used water from this spring for his tea ceremony.

The 600-year old bonsai tree in the shape of a boat.

This shrine houses the stone statue of Fudo-do, known for miraculous powers.

From some of the photos above, you couldn't tell that there were so many tourists. It was challenging to get photos without unwanted people in the shot. Thankfully, the tourists were gracious enough to allow each one to take his turn in getting a good photo. But don't let that discourage you. Visiting this historic site is worth every minute.


Continued from Nightingale Floors.

Nightingale Floors

Nijo Castle
October 9, 2014
JTB Tour 1

When I was researching the best attractions in Japan, someone gave me this valuable advice: "Go with a professional tour group. They'll take you to the best places." So I booked with JTB USA Tours.

The Nijo Castle is the first stop of JTB's Kyoto Morning Tour. Originally built in 1603, this castle (also known as Nijo-jo) was the official residence of the first Tokugawa Shogun. Famous for its nightingale floors, it is also known for showcasing early Edo period and Momoyama culture in Japan: the designs, elaborate carvings, and paintings.

From start to finish, the tour of the castle grounds was impressive. The details on the Karamon Gate (main entry way) will leave you breathless.

The impressive Karamon Gate

A closer look at the fine details of the Karamon Gate

Our tour guide pointed to this architectural detail: wooden carving of a lion scratching its ear

Front and center is the Ninomaru Palace that spans about 35,500 square feet. The facade looks simple until you scrutinize the intricate details of the building.

Visitors taking selfies in front of the Ninomaru Palace

Following our guide, we made our way through the castle grounds. We were led to the Ninomaru Garden, designated as a Special Place of Scenic Beauty. The large island in the center of the pond represents Horai-jima, the Island of Eternal Happiness. The two smaller islands flanking it represent Tsuru-jima or Crane Island and Kame-jima or Turtle Island.

The large pond of Ninomaru Garden

But this is as far as you can go with taking photographs or videos. And before entering the castle, all of us visitors had to take off our shoes and leave them in cubby holes by the entrance.

As we all stepped onto the wooden floors of the castle corridors, the gentle "chirping" began. The wooden floors were built purposely to "squeak" so as to warn of intruders.

It is prohibited to take photos and videos inside Nijo Castle.

The engineering behind the nightingale floors

We were guided along through each room featuring replicas of sliding doors and walls all beautifully painted. Even the elaborate ceilings were magnificent. It was interesting to note that the heart of the illustrations on the walls were concentrated towards the bottom. But if you are sitting on the tatami mat, our tour guide explained, such fine points would be at eye level.

Most amazing was the large room where the shogun relinquished power back to the emperor. This, as our JTB tour guide had so eloquently put it, is one of the most historic moments in Japanese history.

They had mannequins representing the shogun, the samurais, and all the other ranking officials that were dressed in the traditional and official garb of that era. If you're familiar with this historical event, looking at this room will truly move you.

Visitors of this place always come in droves. I'm glad I took the bus tour through JTB. It's organized and convenient. They have hotel pick up points. Best of all, they handle all the arrangements so you don't need to line up for entry tickets.

For more information on JTB's tours, visit https://online.jtbusa.com/Tour.aspx. You can speak to a live person at their reservation center by calling 1-800-223-6104 (open daily).

Pretty Plates

Kaiseki at Seikoro Inn
A ryokan in Kyoto, Japan
October 8, 2014

Part 3

Breakfast and dinner were included in our accommodations. And the dinner wasn’t an ordinary one. We were served the kaiseki or five-course meal.

Enjoying our first kaiseki meal in a ryokan

Once again, I took pictures of everything and Saori, our nakai or personal butler, explained every dish she served. The food presentation took my breath away. Each plate was a work of art and even featured touches of the Fall season.

The First Course: a trio of appetizers

Appetizer 1: a small scoop of refreshing veggie salad topped with a single skinless grape

Appetizer 2: a small portion of chicken salad in a bowl and assorted sushi

Appetizer 3:  the hero dish of the appetizer trio -- a bowl of assorted sashimi

Alan ordered the local beer Asahi while I had premium sake with our dinner. I was so proud of Alan for trying everything we were served. And he masterfully used chopsticks too!

He was awesome in trying everything...with chopsticks!

Living it up Japanese style

The second course was a duet of soup and grilled fish.  There was a big piece of sponge-like tofu in the clear soup. I normally like tofu but I didn't particularly like this one. It's not the same tofu texture that I'm used to. 

The Second Course:  soup and grilled fish

But I enjoyed the broth. It was paired with a bite-size piece of grilled fish. The condiments came in a tiny pumpkin-shaped container. So cute!

The Third Course: a seafood ensemble

Third course dish:  Shrimp with veggies in broth

Third course dish: Another entree featuring local fish

Third course dish: A sampling of some more seafood

Then came the best part of the meal. The Fourth Course featured our favorite dish: tempura!

The Fourth Course and highlight of our meal: tempura with white rice and miso soup.

The Fifth Course: a refreshing dessert combo of honeydew and matcha pudding.

A small grape at the bottom of the matcha pudding bowl spiced up the overall dessert. It was a pleasant surprise to conclude the meal.

After dinner, Saori moved the table off to the side of the room. She then pulled the futons from the cabinet. With swift yet lady-like movements, she laid them out and neatly put the sheets on.

After dinner, Saori set up our futons

You know that the comforters are clean because they are covered with protectors.

Then we turned off this light and said nightey-night.

The next morning, Saori came back at our requested breakfast time. She cleared the floor of the futons and positioned the table back in the center of the room. Alan decided to stick to the Western breakfast while I asked for the traditional Japanese breakfast. Mine turned out to be a grand feast that included veggies, tofu, rice, grilled fish, and miso soup. Who knew?

I requested for the traditional Japanese breakfast. What a feast!

This story is a continuation of Inside the Ryokan (Part 1) and Take It All Off! (Part 2).

In my next blog post, I will be writing about our sightseeing tours in Kyoto. I can't wait to share the wonderful photos. Stay tuned!