Discovering Lanai

Lanai
Last, but not the least, of a Series

Day 7 - December 21, 2013


This is perhaps the most beautiful picture from our recent trip to Hawaii. I snapped the photo from a suburban’s front passenger seat while driving past the Stables of Koele. What I meant to do was focus on the horses but captured the tree instead.  The result was an unintended work of art…a masterful rendition of a dreamy landscape that can only be found in the beautiful island of Lanai. 

 I promise you that this isn't a painting.

Though my husband Alan, stepson Trevor, and I have been to Hawaii many times, Lanai is the one island that we have not seen. While researching for our Maui vacation, I learned that it was easily accessible via a 45-minute ferry right from Maui. I just had to include it in our itinerary. So I planned a day trip on our last vacation day in paradise.

We took the 9:15 am Expeditions Ferry service from Lahaina to Manele Harbor. Lucky for us it was a clear day in mid-December. Some “insiders” (like @LanaiCraig on Twitter) told me that we’re likely to see humpback whales breaching during this time. And we did! During our ferry ride, we spotted about four or five frolicking in the ocean. They were bobbing in and out and spraying water. It was difficult to take pictures from afar but they were very visible from the distance.  At one point, Trevor and I saw the big white belly of one that jumped sideways like a soccer goalie.  “That was huge!” we both exclaimed. [Since I wasn't able to capture pictures, I encourage you to check out this video of humpback whales filmed from a drone.]

On our ferry ride from Lahaina to Manele, we spotted some humpback whales breaching in the ocean.

Lanai is very visible from Lahaina harbor.  Our excitement grew as we slowly approached our destination. It wasn’t entirely green and a big lone rock stood out to greet the visitors.  It seemed that over thousands of years, this 80 foot tall rock had separated from the mainland. I later discovered that this was Puu Pehe or Sweetheart Rock, the most popular landmark in Lanai. Its name springs from a legend about two lovers.

Through additional tips I learned from my “insiders,” I was able to arrange a 3-hour private guided SUV tour of this intriguing island.  As soon as we disembarked from the ferry, our personal driver and guide Bruce from Rabaca Tours was waiting for us with his ebony Chevy suburban.  He showed us around the island with engaging historical facts. I realized then how little I knew about this 6^th island of Hawaii.

He first took us for a quick spin along the tide pools near Hulopoe Beach before heading out. Looking through the crystal waters, we could see small fish that were almost the same color as the bottom of the ocean floor.  At a distance, we could view the gorgeous Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay, one of only two large resorts there.

Our first stop: the tide pools

Cook pine trees welcomed us during our quiet drive towards the city. There were no other cars around honking or cutting us off. And oddly enough, there were no traffic lights in sight.

Cook pine trees welcomed us as we headed towards Lanai City. 

The City of Lanai is a quaint little town that you can leisurely tour in less than an hour.  They have charming gift and souvenir shops like “Dis N Dat,” an art gallery by Mike Carroll, darling cafes…all in small scale yet rich in character.  We stopped to eat at Blue Ginger Café here and to my surprise, I found several familiar Filipino and Asian dishes on the menu. While having lunch here, I had the chance to catch up with my friend Jennifer who recently became a Lanai local.

Charming little Dis N Dat Shop

It was great to catch up with my friend, Jennifer, who recently became a Lanai local.

Later, we drove around The Lodge at Koele, the other resort here managed by the Four Seasons. (The pasture across from this property is where I snapped the photo that looks like a painting.) It’s a plantation-style lodge with a large pineapple painted on its front gable. The golf course here is magnificent and the lush landscape is breathtaking.  The other renowned golf course of the Four Seasons Lanai is called the Challenge at Manele designed by Jack Nicklaus.

The driveway leading to The Lodge at Koele, a Four Seasons Resort in Lanai

Our guide also took us to the northwestern part of the island to see the spectacular orange terrain of the Garden of the Gods.  Also known as Keihiakawelo, this rock garden might as well be a geologist’s heaven. The clay-colored boulders and red rock towers here are fascinating. There were no other tourists around and we took our time exploring the majestic grounds. The wind was mild and the weather so pleasant.

The fascinating Garden of the Gods

Continuing our sight-seeing, we traveled down a winding highway towards Shipwreck Beach. We walked toward the shore where a “honu” or sea turtle was sunbathing.  From where we stood, we could clearly view the rusty remains of the WW II Liberty Ship. On the other side, a man who was knee-deep in the shallow blue waters was looking for fish. Everything here seems untouched and straight out of a storybook.

There's a "honu" or turtle sunbathing on Shipwreck Beach (shipwreck on top right).

To end our tour, we circled back to Hulopo’e Beach.  Ah yes, this is where everyone is.  Children full of energy and gaiety were rolling with the waves while others, probably guests of the Four Seasons, relaxed on the sandy beach to enjoy the sun. We waved at a few locals who were hanging out by a picnic table as we hiked to get a closer look at Sweetheart Rock. We couldn’t leave without getting our photos taken with this picturesque rock formation.

At Sweetheart Rock or Puu Pehe

Walking back from Sweetheart Rock, I caught a fantastic view of the fine Four Seasons Resort fronting Hulopoe Beach. At that moment, I saw a world of contrasts.  On the one hand, here is this virgin island waiting to be discovered. It is so rural, pure and untouched. On the other hand, there is luxury available for those who wish to bring their affluent lifestyle while visiting this serene island. Who says you can’t have it all?

Walking back from Sweetheart Rock, you can easily view Four Seasons Lanai and Hulopoe beach.

I’m glad we took the private tour. SUVs are the best vehicles to take on the rugged roads leading to the island’s attractions.  And there is definitely some comfort knowing that you’re with a local. Throughout our drive, we saw shreds of black plastic on the red dirt roads.  Apparently, black tarps were used for planting pineapple here once upon a time. Thanks to James Dole who bought the island in 1922 and turned it into the world’s largest pineapple plantation. But Lanai is now far from being a Pineapple Island.

Recently, Oracle CEO Larry Ellison became the new owner of 98% of Lanai. We saw his private yacht anchored near the harbor while we were there.  We gathered that he has ambitious plans for this pristine isle.  And just in March of this year, Hawaiian Airlines launched its direct turboprop service from Honolulu. Now it’s even easier to visit “The Most Enticing Island in Hawaii.”


To view more photos, here's a short video tour:

Note:  This story was also featured in the June 2014 issue of View Travel & Lifestyle Magazine .