Hey, It's Joseph!

Kyoto
October 8, 2014


I was excited to see an old friend. He's practically a brother to me. I remember our college days when he and his buddies would come over to the house and just hang out with my sisters and me. Ah, those were the days. And we both have so fond memories of those fun times.

I caught up with my good friend Joseph in Kyoto.

Through Facebook, we found out that we were both in Japan. I was visiting the country with Alan as part of my birthday celebration. Joseph happened to be there vacationing at the same time.

"I'm in Osaka right now but I can meet you in Kyoto," Joseph said in his FB message. It would be good to see you after sooo many years!"

"Oh yay! You'll get to meet my hubby!" I was just as thrilled.

Alan and I took the Shinkansen to Kyoto the next day. Through Facebook messenger and text messages, we coordinated where and when to meet each other at the Kyoto bullet train station.

Alan and I took the Shinkansen or bullet train to Kyoto.

Soon as we walked past the train station's exit turnstiles, we found Joseph patiently waiting for us. After more than twenty years, it was sheer delight to see him again and to give him a big warm hug.

Like a big brother, Joseph immediately took charge. He helped us into a cab and accompanied us to our hotel, a ryokan called Seikoro Inn.

We dropped off our bags at the ryokan, Seikoro Inn.

After dropping off our bags there, he took us to the nearest subway station and showed us how to get back to town. Unlike Tokyo's subway, Kyoto's was a little confusing. We were glad Joseph was with us to lead the way.

Joseph was sharing his WiFi connection

Waiting for our train in the subway station

He only had enough time to have lunch with us before catching his flight back to Hong Kong. As we weaved our way inside Kyoto's big mall called Avanti, he kept asking us, "What would you like to eat?"

It didn't take long for him to find a nice restaurant called Kyoto Suehiro that featured hot stone cooking. Excellent choice!

At the center of our table was a square slab of Mount Fuji lava stone where we personally grilled our choice of steaks and veggies. Well, it was mostly Joseph who took care of the cooking. With his chopsticks, he would put the bite-size steaks on the hot stone and grill them to perfection. Then he'd transfer them onto our plates. The miso soup, salad, and rice helped round out the delicious meal.

Joseph treated us to a delicious lunch at Suehiro restaurant inside Avanti Mall.

Enjoying lunch with Joseph in Kyoto. I'm glad Alan had the chance to meet him.

To make my sisters jealous, I posted our photos on Facebook with the caption, "Guess who I found in Kyoto?"

"Hey, it's Joseph Dee!" My family and friends were pleasantly surprised to see us together in Kyoto.

We talked about a lot of things, remembering our good old days with my siblings.  My mind was flooded with memories of the simple joys we shared back then. He always treated us like his family away from home. And to us, he will always be a dear brother. We all share a strong bond, a unique connection that is almost hard to explain.

It's great to be reunited with a special friend who is just like a brother to me.

Thanks, Joseph, for hosting a delicious lunch, for the helpful Japan shopping tips, and most importantly, for reminding me about our special kinship. It's so nice to be reunited with family even in this part of the world.

Grilling our steaks using hot lava stone in Suehiro.

This story was continued from Tempura Master. Stay tuned to follow my Japan adventure series. More to come.

Tempura Master

Tenmatsu Restaurant
Nihonbashi
Oct. 7, 2014


"I'd really like some tempura for dinner tonight," Alan requested before rolling over to his side to nap. We were tired from walking and sight-seeing all day so we went back to the hotel to get some rest. While he dozed off, I found a raving review about Tenmatsu, a great tempura restaurant nearby.

The directions were also helpful. We took the subway to Nihonbashi and found it without a hitch.

Tenmatsu, a tempura restaurant in Nihonbashi.

There were no individual tables in the restaurant. All it had was a long sushi counter. And one chef.

The different tempura dipping sauces include lemon and salt, broth with grated radish, and plum sauce.

While enjoying Kikuhime sake, we watched solo chef Tatsuya Onizuka work his magic behind the counter.

He effortlessly used his thumbs to break the head off the live shrimp and then toss them into a plastic container. Sometimes the shrimp, even without its head, would squiggle and jump off the chopping board. Then he would just casually pick it up, put it back on his chopping board, and carry on with his cooking preparations. Like it was nothing. I wish I caught it all on video.

Here's a video showing chef removing the heads off live shrimp.

We ordered the set tempura dinner.  The first course were the shrimp heads deep-fried to a crispy consistency. There were three choices for dipping sauce: salt and lemon, tempura sauce (broth with grated radish), and plum sauce. Any which way brought out good flavor.

Next was the rest of the shrimp that he had butterflied, lightly battered, and deep-fried. Very tasty!

Shrimp tempura

Then he started laying out these string-like seafood on a plate. I asked him, "Are wa nan desu ka?" (What is that?)

At first I didn't understand what he said but he actually replied, "Bone!" The restaurant manager explained that it was eel spine.

The anago eel and its spine.

"Ah, unagi!" I said, talking about the only Japanese eel I know...until now.

But Chef Tatsuya corrected me, "No. Anago."

Here's the difference:  Unagi is freshwater eel while anago is saltwater eel.  Anago is usually simmered or deep-fried like in this case. Unagi, on the other hand, is usually barbecued.

He tied the eel spine into a knot and then deep-fried it. Just as with everything, it was very crispy, crunchy, and delicious!

Eel spine, anyone?

After serving us scallops and fish, chef brought us a basketful of fresh vegetables to choose from. I picked the lotus root and the asparagus. Again, delish!

The basket of fresh vegetables included asparagus, mushrooms, and lotus.

Lotus root tempura

I was taking pictures of everything and the couple sitting to our left started to make fun of me. They had no idea I was planning on writing about it and sharing my experience. I didn't care. I was having fun!

I loved my tempura meal!

It was great to experience authentic tempura dining and Alan was very happy about the excellent restaurant choice. Thanks, Chef! You're the tempura master!

Tenmatsu Chef Tatsuya Onizuka, the tempura master.

This story was continued from The Eight-Sided Keep. More stories to follow about my Japan adventure.

The Eight-Sided Keep

East Gardens of the Imperial Palace
(Higashi Gyoen)
October 7, 2014


One of the most beautiful sights to see in the East Gardens of the Tokyo Imperial Palace is the three-story Fujimi Yagura Keep. Also known as the Eight-Sided Keep, it was built to appear the same from any angle -- graceful and pretty. We passed it as we headed for the Otemon gate.

A beautiful shot of the Fujimi Yagura Keep, photo-bombed by an adorable swan.

Several tourists like us stopped to take photos of the lovely Keep while some fitness buffs jogged past us. Everything is beautiful and clean around here. Even the sidewalks leading to the East Garden's gates had dainty floral patterns.

Dainty patterns on sidewalks leading to the East Gardens' gates.

We had about an hour left before closing time but it worked to our favor. There weren't big crowds and we were able to stroll inside almost exclusively.

One of the striking buildings is the Doshin Bansho Guardhouse -- one of the last three still standing. It was the first checkpoint for daimyo lords entering the Edo Castle through the Otemon gate. This was where samurai guardsmen kept a close watch to protect the palace.

Doshin Bansho Guardhouse

The stone walls and old buildings within the East Gardens of the palace are contrasted with Marunouchi's modern high rises and construction in the background.

This right here shows the old with the new.

As we explored further in the park, we found towering stone walls built high with rows of stones horizontally stacked on top of each other. Designated as a "special historic structure of the former Edo Castle," the stone walls are constantly being restored.

Inside the East Gardens are well-manicured lawns and the gorgeous Nonomaru Garden. If you look closely, you'll see iris plants in the foreground. I can only imagine how splendid it must look in the Springtime when all the irises and various flowers are in bloom.

This Nonomaru Garden must be so colorful and splendid when all the flowers are in bloom.

 

An authentic zen garden. So tranquil and divine.

Everywhere you turn, there is something lovely to see. The Suwanochaya or Suwa Tea Pavilion is absolutely charming. It's so well-kept. Even the elegant and elaborate lamp posts here are eye-catching.

Suwanochaya or Suwa Tea Pavilion

Eye-catching lamp post

Oh, the Otemon Gate! That alone is so fascinating. The intricate design of the monumental gate is incredible. For scale, I purposely took the photo of the gate showing Alan on the left-hand side.

The massive Otemon gate.

The intricate detail on this monumental gate is incredible.

And this is only the second day of my Japan adventure. I've already seen so much yet I still can't believe I'm here!

I'm so grateful I made it to Tokyo!

This story was continued from Moats, Stone Walls, and the Eyeglass Bridge. I'll be sharing more stories from my Japan adventure. Stay tuned!

Moats, Stone Walls, and the Eyeglass Bridge

Tokyo Imperial Palace Plaza
October 7, 2014


If you've ever been to the Tokyo Imperial Palace, you know that the inner grounds are not open to the public (except for two days of the year). There are available guided tours of the palace grounds but you can't enter any of the buildings and you need to get a permit first. Although we didn't join such a tour, we were able to walk around the surrounding park and East Gardens. It was worth the quick visit.

Visiting the Tokyo Imperial Palace Plaza.

This beautiful stone bridge is perhaps one of the most photographed in this tourist site. We took turns in taking pics with other visitors.

Meganebashi or Eyeglass Bridge.

It's easy to see why Meganebashi is also known as the Eyeglass Bridge.  When the bridge's arches connect with their reflections in the water,  they form what look like eyeglasses. Do you see it?

This bridge's arches and their reflection in the water appear to form eyeglasses.

Behind Meganebashi is a smaller bridge called Nijubashi, also known as the Double Bridge. It was originally made of wood and the structure was reinforced (doubled) for support. It has been replaced with steel.

The Nijubashi or the Double Bridge. The tower on the upper right is the Fushimi Yagura Keep.

As we got closer to Nijubashi, we had a better view of the Fushimi Yagura Keep. We noticed some scaffolding around it. We weren't sure if it was for maintenance reasons or for fortification.

We couldn't help but notice the moats, stone walls, and Japanese black pine trees in the large park area leading to the bridges. The entire place was just lovely. And immaculately clean!

Here's Alan in front of the Hibiya Moat

And that's me next to the massive stone walls and Japanese black pine trees.

More Japanese black pine trees

From here, we walked all the way to the Otemon Gate to access the East Gardens of the Imperial (Higashi Gyoen) which is not restricted to the public. That story is continued on the next blog post. Lots of great photos!

Some important notes:
JTB USA offers a day tour that includes a stroll in the Imperial Palace Plaza. Check it out here.

Remember, you need to submit an application prior to visiting the Imperial Palace inner grounds. For Application Guidelines, click here.  Learn more by visiting the Imperial Household Agency's website.



This was continued from Only At The Peninsula. A travel series on my recent Japan adventure.

Only At The Peninsula

The Peninsula Tokyo
October 7, 2014


My Pen friends know this:  "Once a Peninsula fan, always a Peninsula fan." Having worked for the distinguished hotel chain once upon a time, I understand the true meaning of luxury and the legendary Peninsula service. My Tokyo visit wouldn't have been complete if I didn't get to see this illustrious hotel property.

The Peninsula Tokyo

Sitting in a prime area, The Peninsula Tokyo is located in the prestigious business district, Marunouchi, and only a stone's throw away from the Imperial Palace Gardens.

The Peninsula Tokyo is located in the Marunouchi business district

As with most Peninsula properties, its lobby is the focal point and the perfect place to have breakfast, lunch, or even classic afternoon tea. The Lobby boasts of "hanabi," a crystal chandelier inspired by fireworks. I just learned that overlooking this lobby is a private balcony with an exclusive table for four. It's an option available for those who want a unique afternoon tea experience. I wish I had seen that first hand.

The Lobby with its arresting piece of art under the "hanabi." 

Now the rooms! They are so spacious, luxurious, and unlike the typical accommodations in the city.  (See my previous post entitled Tip Not, My Dear Sir.)  I was very fortunate to take a peek inside the hotel's Deluxe Suite overlooking the Tokyo Imperial Palace Gardens. Just look at that incredible view!

The luxurious suite's living room area is wrapped with stunning views.

View of the Tokyo Imperial Palace Gardens from the Deluxe Suite

Separate bedroom area

Marble and stone bathroom with a large dressing room

After the quick tour of the suite, we approached the Concierge Desk to ask directions to the Tokyo Imperial Palace. The Concierge staff was pleased to give us a map and told us we still had plenty of time to roam the East Gardens before closing time. So off we went to our next destination!


This story was continued from Song, Dance, and Skill. A series on my Japan visit.

Song, Dance, and Skill

Kabukiza Theatre
October 7, 2014


Our next stop was Ginza. We originally wanted to catch a kabuki play at the Shimbashi Enbujo Theatre. By the time we made it to the ticket desk, the performance was already underway. The lady behind the counter was kind enough to point us to Kabukiza, the largest kabuki theater in Japan.

Kabukiza Theatre in Ginza

The theater's facade displays the architectural styles of ancient Japan and the late 16th century period.

The theater is accessible via subway to Higashi Ginza station either on the Hibiya Line or Asakusa Line. 

Just had to stop for a few snapshots.

A mini shrine outside Kabukiza Theatre

It is only here that one can catch a presentation every month throughout the year. You can also choose to just see a single act play, or the Hitomaku-mi, which runs for about 30 minutes. It's great for those with limited time but want a taste of Japanese cultural entertainment. Worked perfect for us!

Schedule of performances at Kabukiza Theatre

After getting our matinee tickets, we proceeded to the 4th floor where there was standing room only. We turned on our earphone guides (available for rent) to follow along in English and gain a better appreciation of the theatrical event. Photos of the performances were strictly prohibited so we don't have any to share. There are a few available online and you can find them here.

A screenshot of the Kabuki website where you can view photos.

From where we stood, we still had a great view of the magnificent theater. Once the curtains parted, the stage came alive with the artistic backdrop, the drum beats, the costumes, and the interpretative dances.

The first single act was about Okane, a strong woman famous for stopping a runaway horse with her bare hands. Okane's dance included slight tilting of the head, short poses, and occasional stomping of the feet.

Alan whispered in my ear, "Look at the size of those feet. That's a guy."

"Yes. It's a guy," I confirmed. "There are no women in kabuki. They are all male actors."

The kabuki actor named Nakamura Senjaku moved with such grace and skill. Performers like him trained for years just to perfect the art. It's fascinating! Click on these links to see his photos with and without make-up.

In modern Japanese, "kabuki" is written using three characters:
   ka - meaning "song"
   bu - meaning "dance"
   ki - meaning "skill"

Someday when I return to Japan, I would like to watch a full length kabuki drama. I've read that they are emotional experiences. Deeply moving. Learn more here.

Shops are found at the basement level. This is where I picked up my Good Luck Hammer.

After the show, we followed the crowd down to the basement level. It was filled with various shops with food items, unique handicrafts, kabuki-related products, and interesting souvenirs.  This is where I picked up my Good Luck Hammer. It's a lucky charm that looks like a little mallet. The belief is that it needs to be constantly moving to make your wishes come true. You can bet that I'll be swinging my good luck hammer all the way home!


This story was continued from White Tiger.